NIOD – The Complete Review
Even though The Ordinary launched unexpectedly last year and caused quite a stir in the industry, NIOD has always been my first go-to brand. I was already very familiar with DECIEM when NIOD launched. I’d been using Fountain since its launch in 2013, as well as Hand Chemistry (now The Chemistry Brand), and later HIF. When Brandon Truaxe finally unveiled his first official skincare line, I was immediately on board.
I still remember the launch because that was the first time I stopped reading to order a product straight away. And considering how quickly it sold out, I’m glad I did. From that first purchase to today, NIOD has been one of my favorite and most-used brands. I don’t think I’ve gone a day without using one of their products since their launch, and I don’t expect that to change anytime soon.
When NIOD launched, it was exciting and unlike anything else on the market. But most importantly, it helped my skin exactly the way I needed it (and didn’t know I needed it) and surpassed every product I’d used before. I found their approach to skincare refreshing, logical, and straightforward, despite the (at the time) somewhat confusing scientific jargon behind it, but that kind of contradiction is typical of Brandon/NIOD.
Unlike the DECIEM brands before and after NIOD, this one was a personal passion project for Brandon, who sought a space to push science to its limits without worrying about public perception or product understandability. I know some people find NIOD confusing or distracting, but that’s why their tagline is “skincare for the informed,” as Brandon explained at a recent event. You don’t necessarily have to understand the science behind NIOD to use the products (I certainly didn’t at first), but they’re for anyone who wants to learn more about skincare and wants more.
Non-Invasive Options in Dermal Science (NIOD) has always been about science, not sales. Their products primarily aim to maintain overall skin health and improve the lifespan and function of skin cells so they age better. Unlike most brands, the beauty of NIOD lies not in glorious scents and textures or Instagram-worthy packaging, but in cutting-edge ingredients and technologies that produce extraordinary results. Of course, like any brand, NIOD isn’t for everyone, and their products don’t work for everyone, but when they do, like they did for me, it will be groundbreaking, skin-transforming, and life-changing.
Unlike almost all other brands (including The Ordinary), NIOD goes the extra mile when it comes to detailing each product. All scientific information can be found directly on the product pages, including full INCI lists, key ingredient information, pH levels, and a handy guide to ingredients like oil, alcohol, and silicone. However, some details are still missing, and that’s where this review comes in. I want to fill in those gaps, delve into the tactile side (how they feel, etc.), and share my personal experiences with each product (application, results, tips) so you know not only how and why they work, but also who they’re suitable for and what to expect from them.
Copper Amino Isolate
Of course, this miracle ingredient was my first review—not only in this article, but also on the blog (here). I’ve been using CAIS in some form (1% or 5%) since its launch in May 2015 and was actually the very first person to post about it on Instagram (yes, even before @deciem—they regrammed me!). I went out on a limb after just two uses and predicted this serum would be my “favorite product of 2015,” and it didn’t disappoint. My excitement grew with each use, and I even started a blog to write more about it.
To be clear, copper peptides are not the same as copper, so you don’t have to worry about a Fenton reaction (oxidative tissue damage) when using any of these serums.
Copper Amino Isolate 1% (now 2:1)
Ingredients: Copper Concentrate – Aqua (Water), Copper Tripeptide-1, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Pentylene Glycol, Isoceteth-20, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin. ACTIVATOR – Aqua (Water), Glycerin, Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3, Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3, Norleucine Acetate, Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Acetylarginyl Tryptophyl Diphenylglycine, Copper Lysinate/Prolinate, Methyl Glucoside Phosphate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Glycogen, Arginine, Pentylene Glycol, Lecithin, Dextran, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Ethoxydiglycol, Isoceteth-20, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin.
If you’ve been following me for a while or read the article about my health journey, you’ll know that when NIOD came along, my skin was in a terrible state due to my condition. I was constantly getting breakouts, constantly having to pick at them, and struggling to do anything real about them. What really fascinated me about CAIS (apart from Gill’s hilarious desire to marry it) was the ability of its star ingredient, pure GHK-Cu tripeptide, to heal wounds. I didn’t need to hear any more, as my face was covered in “wounds” at the time due to my compulsive scratching.
As soon as my order arrived, I immediately applied CAIS to my face and reapplied it that same evening. The next day, my wounds had significantly improved. Not just a little, or if I looked closely, they had clearly experienced a 100% acceleration of healing, which continued to improve with each application. For me, the results were simply miraculous, and I will be eternally grateful to NIOD for what CAIS did for my skin back then.
Besides CAIS’s incredible wound-healing properties, what impressed me most about this serum was that it truly does everything—unlike anything I’d ever used before. The high dose of copper tripeptide-1 (1% is high for this ingredient) permanently regenerates and rejuvenates the skin, which has a positive effect on all skin types—from hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and pores to elasticity, texture, skin tone, and radiance. It not only prevents future damage but also corrects existing problems, and I can only attest to that.
CAIS also supports immune function, collagen synthesis, blood vessel development, fibroblast production, and anti-inflammatory responses. That’s why it worked so well for me, as my immune function and anti-inflammatory responses were severely compromised due to my illness. Most people don’t need this support and may therefore not achieve the same results as me, but everyone can benefit from the overall improved skin health.
For those unfamiliar with this product, I’ll briefly explain how to prepare it. It comes in two bottles: one containing the activator, which contains most of the ingredients, and the other containing the copper concentrate, which contains the valuable copper tripeptide-1. Add the activator to the copper concentrate, shake for 30 seconds, and it’s ready to use. The copper concentrate should be a vibrant blue, which, once mixed with the activator, becomes a light, watery blue. Fortunately, this product no longer needs to be refrigerated. However, continue to protect it from direct heat and sunlight to prevent deactivation.
The product itself is incredibly watery and absorbs into the skin within seconds without leaving any residue. It has a distinct metallic-chemical smell (like most NIOD products), but that doesn’t bother me (it dissipates quickly) as I’m very sensitive to synthetic and natural scents. The product should be applied to cleansed skin after cleansing or after SDSM (you can also use SDSM after if you prefer), and definitely before applying any acids. I recommend waiting at least 30 seconds before moving on to the next step (acid, toner, serum, moisturizer, oil, sunscreen, etc.). The method of application is entirely up to you.
I either apply the serum in a line with my index fingertip and then quickly apply it to specific areas of my face (cheeks, forehead, nose/upper lip, chin). Or I tilt my head slightly back and apply individual drops to each area. Both work well. I used to simply put a few drops of serum in my palms and apply it from there. However, I noticed that I use more than necessary. I also don’t like the idea of the serum staying in my palms, as the active ingredients are absorbed within seconds. Therefore, I want to apply them to my face as quickly as possible. have a face.
How much and how often you use is, again, a personal choice. When my skin is problematic, I use a little more than usual (usually 4-7 drops) and initially twice a day. Now, I use it once a day if I’m not using the 5% solution. You don’t need much, as the serum is very watery, and using more doesn’t necessarily lead to faster/better results. I like to apply an extra layer to blemishes or wounds to ensure they’re adequately covered, and do this twice a day until they’re healed. I would recommend those with compromised skin (especially acne-prone) to use the serum twice a day. Unless you have mature skin, you can use the serum only once a day if you value longer lasting effects.
The serum has become a true “Marmite” product, with some getting great results and others getting none at all. The purpose of CAIS is to “move away from the traditional mindset of treating visible aspects of skin aging individually and instead build a foundation for skin health.” I firmly believe in this. Some skin doesn’t necessarily show visible results, which can be frustrating. However, as some of you have discovered, the proof that it actually “does something” only becomes apparent after discontinuation. Still, it won’t work for everyone, like any other product on the market, and some may find it difficult to use it if they don’t see any visible effects.
I’ve seen both visible and overall results. I see my blemishes and wounds healing faster, and my skin looks smoother and more even. Additionally, my skin is less inflamed, has fewer breakouts, and is responding better to everything else I use. I can’t necessarily say lines and wrinkles have improved, as I’m not quite there yet, but I expect I won’t see any for quite some time with use.
Long-time users will know that it has undergone some changes (version 6.2.001). For example, it no longer requires refrigeration, copper concentrate is being converted from powder to liquid copper concentrate, and castor oil is no longer used. However, the biggest change is coming soon with CAIS2. I’m really looking forward to it and will update this post as soon as I get it in my hands.
Copper Amino Isolate 5% (Discontinued)
Ingredients: COPPER CONCENTRATE – Glycerin, Copper Tripeptide-1, Aqua (Water), Methyl Glucoside Phosphate, Copper Lysinate/Prolinate, PPG-26 Buteth-26, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol. ACTIVATOR – Aqua (Water), Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Glycerin, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Ethoxydiglycol, Decapeptide-22, Ogliopeptide-78, Palmitoyl Decapeptide-21, Zinc Palmitoyl Nonapeptide-14, Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Pentylene Glycol, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Phenylpropanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol.
Now for the miracle product we simply call “the love affair that almost never happened,” simply because, even though I knew it existed, I never thought to try it, believing it would be too much for my skin. But I was completely wrong. As I mentioned in my detailed review (here), I owe everything to this serum, and it’s just as incredible as the 1% serum, only five times more incredible than expected.
When I started using CAIS 1%, it was the most advanced and effective product in my stash, and my skin responded exceptionally well to it. About a year later, I used it less and less as I became fascinated with other active ingredients like acids and retinols. This led me to mistakenly believe I no longer needed CAIS. I realized how wrong I was when I started using The Ordinary’s Retinol 1%. My skin was flaky, sore, and chapped, and nothing really helped until I started using CAIS again and then read India Knight’s article about her “Top 5 of All Time.”
I had an Oprah Winfrey-like “aha” moment, and I realized: Weren’t my retinol side effects exactly the kind of “trauma” Brandon was referring to when he talked about who the 5% was best for? Wouldn’t the 5% solve these problems faster and faster? Yes, yes, and yes. I started using it that same evening and have been using it ever since.
CAIS 5% is as close to the magic of skincare as I’ve ever seen or experienced. It truly does everything and has worked (faster than anything else) to lighten and prevent hyperpigmentation, as well as improve complexion, texture, and clarity. It was a majorIt’s a key ingredient to prevent dairy-induced skin breakouts, and most importantly for me right now: It’s completely changed how my skin responds to retinol.
Now I don’t have any dryness, the peeling time is shorter, and the skin that emerges afterward is completely different. It’s as if it’s already healed. Before CAIS 5%, the peel revealed baby-soft, incredibly smooth skin that was slightly red in some areas, quite sensitive, and kind of “raw,” in the sense that it felt vulnerable and wound-like. Now, it’s as if the new skin is completely coming through. med, but not only that, the retinol results were even better. I saw the hyperpigmentation visibly lighten within a few days, and my skin appeared even and clear. I find one of the biggest benefits of CAIS is that it further enhances the effectiveness of the active serum used, showing results faster.
I understand what Brandon meant when he said the 5% is best for short-term, extreme recovery rather than long-term use, but I think I have to disagree. I’ve been using it for about six months now, and perhaps even he underestimates its power. In addition to its impressive anti-aging benefits, it’s an excellent product for preventing and healing inflammation, which can be tremendously helpful for acne sufferers. That’s why I liked using it as my only product in the evenings with my “two-step routine,” and my skin was very happy the next day despite the few products I used.
Anyone who’s ever had a blemish knows that it develops in bouts. Even if your skin looks clear on the surface, when you’re in direct sunlight, you can sometimes see “invisible” acne under the skin, just waiting to break out. This has happened to me before (usually when I eat dairy products) and is basically a sign that my skin is about to get sick. But thanks to this product, I don’t have to worry about it anymore.
My skin is now generally completely clear—both on the surface and underneath. With my last dairy problem, all the “invisible acne” I had disappeared within a week. This product was the main reason why. I firmly believe this product is a must-have for anyone who likes to clear their skin, as it shortens the lifespan of the blemish, heals the wound incredibly quickly, and drastically reduces the risk of PIH.
I find it difficult to recommend a product that costs over £100 as an absolute must-have. However, if you suffer from recurring rashes, persistent inflammation, or pick at your blemishes, this product could really help. Of course, try the 1% solution first, as it might be sufficient. If not, try this product. My results have stabilized over the past few months, as the product no longer improves my skin health but rather maintains it, but it’s still “better” than the 1% solution. I still occasionally pick at the sore, and with this product, at least I know it’s healing as quickly as possible and I won’t end up with horrible scars.